The Petzl carabiners and the Black Diamond Mini Pearabiner also scored very high. These are great locking carabiners to use as the “master point” of an anchor because you can easily clip multiple knots on a bite, slings and other items. The DMM Boa and Black Diamond Rocklock scored top for holding the most knots and slings. We would still use a non-keylock carabiner, but we really prefer the keylock feature. The clear low scorers were the non-keylock carabiners. It’s hard to single out a clear winner in this category. Gate Hang UpĪll the keylock carabiners did great in these tests which involved seeing how easily the gates got hung up on bolt hangers and slings with unclipping. The DMM Boa Quicklock stood out for taking just one accurately placed twist to completely unlock (this probably only works with the carabiner is new and smooth). The Petzl carabiners stood out for having bigger twist gates that were easy to use, especially with gloves. As far as screw-gate carabiners, there were five carabiners that all tied for best. In general, all the twist-lock carabiners were easier to lock and unlock than the screw gates. The twist lock is incredibly smooth, and the carabiner’s shape makes it very easy to lock and unlock. The DMM Boa Quicklock was the easiest carabiner to lock and unlock. The Petzl Attache, on the other hand, is very light and functional across various tasks. They just don’t do a lot of functions as well as bigger locking carabiners. That is why the light biners, in general, score lower. With most light biners, the small size means you sacrifice a little in the range of activities the carabiner is good for. It was also the most expensive of the three.Īnother notable light biner is the Petzl Attache, which is not as light as these three but is probably the lightest considering its size. The Trango is a solid biner but we prefer the keylock gate of the other biners. If we were on a budget, we would go with Mad Rock as our main choice. The Mad Rock is our top pick because it had the smoothest keylock gate, was really easy to handle and just looks cool. They are all within a few grams of each other with the Trango being a little lighter than the Mad Rock. It’s hard to say because the manufacturer’s weight listings were a little different than our own measurements. Our favorite lightweight locking carabiner was the Mad Rock Super Tech which edged ahead of the other two super light carabiners: the Wild Country Ascent HMS and the Trango SuperFly Screwlock.
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